Sunday, September 30, 2012

An afternoon and evening on Mount Hood --Cooper Spur and Timberline Lodge

I visited Portland in late September 2012 to experience the vibrant atmosphere of Jeld-Wen Field while rooting for DC United against the Portland Timbers, but first I wanted to enjoy a fall hike on Mount Hood. I was determined to try a hike on the east side of the mountain, a side I have never hiked before, so we headed for the Cooper Spur trail.  We got a bit of a late start, so that we lacked the time and energy to get to the top, but the hike was still beautiful and the views splendid.

We began our climb from the Cloud Cap parking lot at about noon.

After climbing steadily, we got some great views of Mounts Adams, Rainier and St. Helens to the north.





We stopped for lunch after a couple of hours, enjoying a closer look at Mount Hood above and the Eliot Glacier right in front of us.
Mt Hood and Eliot Glacier

 We climbed toward Cooper Ridge following a series  of switchbacks, enjoying closer views of the glacier

Cooper Ridge, our destination
Eliot Glacier seen from Cooper Spur

Eliot Glacier seen from Cooper Spur
Finally, we ran into a spot on the trail that was completely blocked by frozen snow.  We were only a half hour from the top of the ridge,but we were tired, and the road to Cloud Cap had been badly rutted in spots, and we did not want to drive back in the dark.  So here is where we stopped our ascent.
Switchbacks back down Cooper Spur
On the way back down, we paused for this photo of Mount  Adams in the distance:
As we reached the lower part of the hike, we took advantage of a partial loop along the Tilly Jane Trail, passing by Polallie Canyon, carved out by a now-melted glacier.  The canyon culminates in this bowl:

And here is the view across the canyon, with slivers of ice showing through the bottom of the canyon wall, and small springs emerging from the middle of the  wall

Polallie Canyon
Some  of the trees near the edge of the canyon had been feeling the effects of the winds

We reached the bottom of the hike at the Tilly Jane historic area, but still had a mile of up and down hiking past the Tilly Jane parking area, then back to Cloud Cap campground. By the time  we hit our car it was after 6 PM, and the darkness was gathering as we carried our bags up to the Reed College ski cabin where we were going to spend the night.  The moon was almost full as we drove up to Timberline Lodge where we had an exceptional meal.  We shared a salmon bisque, the soup of the day, and an argula salad with watermelon and a locally farmed feta that had a smooth taste and consistency unlike any feta I had ever  had before.

Salmon bisque and arugula salad at Cascade Dining Room, Timberline Lodge
For our main course, we had a salmon poached in a "verjus" served with fennel and other vegetables and fregola sarda a large couscous, and intensely flavored lamb T-bones accompanied by nice mashed potatoes and  amazingly flavorful cherry tomatoes.
I could not resist checking out the dessert menu, and we chose the lemon posset, served with a bittersweet chocolate ganache, a cranberry compote, and an orange-thyme  flavored, thin crisp.  Each element was delicious, and the combination made it a fitting end to an excellent meal!


Monday, May 21, 2012

A suggestion for friends approaching the Social Security "full benefit" age of 66

The following is a guest post from my old friend and colleague TDU National Organizer Ken Paff, based on his own experience and his calculations about how to maximize retirement benefits. Ken is one of the most amazing and dedicated advocates I know, having dedicated the greater part of his life, and almost the entirety of his working life, to the Teamster reform movement, which I was privileged to serve as the main out-house counsel for about fifteen years. I have added only a hyperlink to his text.


My Birthday Tip for Those Who Can See Age 66 in the Headlights
As the hair has salted, I’ve dabbled and even waded into the welfare state. 

Welfare state, you say?  Is that still around? 

It is. Not as robust as way back when I could live quite nicely on a teaching assistant fellowship. But it’s there, at least for the gray set. 

First thing I learned: the welfare state works best for the middle class.  How perverse that I needed computer-smarts, a well-studied partner, seven pounds of paper and even a professional “health care broker” to guide myself into Medicare. 

Speaking of Medicare, I received birthday greetings from them this morning. I clicked “delete.”  It was probably a reminder to eat more fiber.

Today is my 66th birthday, otherwise known as the onset of Full Benefits in the jewel of the entitlement crown: Social Security.

Two days ago, I signed the papers. But not in the way I expected, and that development is what I’m here to explain.

I should mention that Social Security is better than you think, oh fellow cynic. What else do we have with a steeply progressive payout?  Low income folks get more back for what they paid in and thus greater income replacement, than those in the uptown brackets.

The Choice and How to Make it

At age 66, you can collect Full Benefits and still work. (Age 66 is a temporary plateau; in 2020 it will start creeping up and reach 67 by about 2027. Thank Reagan.) 

But Full Benefits is relative. You can choose Delayed Benefits, and your benefit level will grow by 8% a year till age 70, for a 32% boost over Full Benefits (The 8% is not compounded, hence only 32%.)

With Martha’s approval, I opted for the Full Benefits cash now, after calculating the advantage of taking the money and investing it.  I have other friends, including one who is freshly 66, who have opted to delay. They are probably planning to show off their fatter checks after they reach 70.

But then I learned that I could do both at once. The SSA doesn’t exactly hide this nifty option, but I had to go deep into the bowels of their website to find mention. 

In talking to friends, I find folks who could use this who are in dark. So I’m here to spread the news.

The punch line:  You can opt right at 66 to collect benefits based on your spouse’s social security record (or, as in my case, ex-spouse’s, if you were married 10+ years), and let your own account build up at 8% a year (SSA calls it 2/3 of 1% per month), and then switch later to your bulked-up benefit. 
Starting this month, social security will slip ½ of benefits into my bank account each month. Not ½ of my earned benefits, but ½ of based on that spousal account, which is a similar amount for most folks. Only in musicals do the rich and poor get married.

 The ½ is because spousal benefits are ½ of earned benefits.

And, at a later date – anytime I choose, but at least by age 70 – I will switch to benefits based on my highest 35 years average earnings, which will be 132% x  my Full Benefit + COL increases, if I wait till age 70.

Further, if you are currently married, you can both do this – eat half the cake baked by your spouse, while also letting your own cake rise. I think this double-dip effect works best if you have similar ages, but it works at least in part for the May-Decembers also.

The poor usually can’t afford to delay benefits to bulk up, while collecting ½ now. The welfare state indeed works best for the middle class. But do take advantage of it, while it’s still there.

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

My experiment with making locro

Although I was disappointed with the locro that I had at El Rancho in Cafayate, it was delicious at CumanĂ¡ in Buenos Aires, and I was determined to try to make it soon after getting home to DC.  This is the adaptation that I tried after consulting various online sources.  It turned out great.

I served it with a home-made chimichurri sauce, mostly because I was anxious to try to make that sauce too after all the good experiences we had with it in Uruguay and Argentina.  The recipes I saw tended to suggest a different sauce, made with sauteed onion, garlic, paprika and cayenne.  Next time I have in mind to do both.  And in retrospect, more squash would have been good, and maybe more added for the last part of the cooking along with the extra corn and cannellini.  The recipes I saw called for hominy in addition to yellow corn, and I might well try that too.

4 corn cobs, cooked, kernels stripped
4 cans cannellini beans, drained
1 pound beef strips, cut in small pieces
1-1/2 pounds thick pork chops, cut in small pieces
1 pound bacon, cut in small pieces, then cooked, fat reserved
4 links chorizo, cooked, then cut in small pieces
1.5 pounds onion, coarsely chopped
a few cloves of garlic, minced
most of one medium sized butternut squash, chopped into smallish pieces
3 medium potatoes, chopped into small cubes
1 sweet potato, chopped into small cubes
2-3 tablespoons of cumin seed
1 tablespoon paprika
½ teaspoon cayenne
water

I preheated the oven at 350°.

I sauteed the onions and garlic in the bacon fat, then drained the fat.  I put everything except two cans of beans and kernels from two of the cobs into a heavy-duty pot, stirred thoroughly, covered with water with about an inch of water above the solids, and baked, covered, for about 4 hours, stirring very occasionally.  When I opened to stir, I checked to be sure there was still water atop the solids.  It had cooked away at one point so I added more water.

After roughly four hours of this, I stirred the pot once more. By now, much of the squash and some of the other vegetable matter had disintegrated.  I then added the rest of the beans and corn, and baked uncovered for about 2 hours.  I did not have to add any water at this point to keep the stew moist.  But when I was ready to serve there was no longer any water sitting on top.


Tuesday, April 24, 2012

A tour of the Quebrada de Cafayate

On our first full day in Cafayate, we toured the Quebrada de Cafayate, also known as the Quebrada de las Conchas because it follows the Rio de las Conchas.  Full credit to the Puna Turismo agency, through which we booked the tour, and especially to Marcelo, the tour leader.

Our first stop was this set of rocks (not signed so far as I could see).

 Marcelo took us on an exploration of the rocks was he explained the area's geology as well as discussing the plants were were seeing.  Because the explanation was in Spanish, we only caught some of this :-(

 We marveled at some of the amazing rock formations

Rock formations with windows in Quebrada de Cafayate
and walked into narrow canyons for a closer look
Canyon in Quebrada de Cafayate

Our tour in one of the canyons in Quebrada de Cafayate 
This formation is called Castillos, or castles


Los Castillos in Quebrada de Cafayate
And this is the official Las Ventanas:
Las Ventanas in Quebrada de Cafayate
This one, called The Obelisk, is ringed by a fence as a warning not to climb on the rock:
El Obelisco in Quebrada de Cafayate
Some amazing color variations in the rocks




Greens, and even blues


I liked these little cactuses
Marcelo told us that the reason for the fence around this next feature, El Sapo (the toad), was a different one -- that there used to be two, but the other one hopped right onto the road and got schmushed by a passing car

Here is the Rio de las Conchas looking southward from near El Sapo
Finally, we approached the last two, and perhaps the most dramatic features of the Quebrada -- the Amphitheatre (Anfiteatro) and The Devil's Throat or Garagantua del Diablo -- a rather drier affair than the version we had seen a few days before at Iguazu.
The Amphitheatre in Quebrada de Cafayate

The Amphitheatre is a small slot canyon with nice acoustics, allowing musical performances, as demonstrated by one tour participant who  had brought along his guitar and gave an impromptu performance for us
The Amphitheatre in Quebrada de Cafayate
The Amphitheatre in Quebrada de Cafayate
The Amphitheatre in Quebrada de Cafayate
Finally, the Gargantua, where we could climb through the rocks\
Gargantua del Diablo in Quebrada de Cafayate
The path took us up the rock face where tour guide Marcelo in standing, showing the proper foot placements

Gargantua del Diablo  in Quebrada de Cafayate
and around the corner to the right that can be seen in this photo
Gargantua del Diablo  in Quebrada de Cafayate
Looking back down to the bottom of the Throat
Gargantua del Diablo  in Quebrada de Cafayate

Gargantua del Diablo  in Quebrada de Cafayate



Monday, April 23, 2012

Art in the Subways of Buenos Aires

Public art in Buenos Aires was not limits to the walls and streets; it could also be seen on the walls of the city's subway or Subte.  Not every station is decorated, but well over half of the stations we visited over the course of three days of using the subway had murals built into the walls and sometimes the floors. The tile-work on many of the stairways was also impressive.

The Plaza Italia station  had a few tiled plaques on the floor and walls:

Floor decoration, Plaza Italia station on Buenos Aires Subte

Wall decoration, Plaza Italia station on Buenos Aires Subte
We saw these tiled murals in the Bulnes station
Tiled mural in Bulnes station on Buenos Aires Subte

Tiled mural in Bulnes station on Buenos Aires Subte
Tiled mural in Bulnes station on Buenos Aires Subte
Changing lines at the Diagonal Norte station, the corridors were lined with this nice tile:

Tile in corridor connecting two lines in Estacion Diagonal Norte, Buenos Aires Subte
This mural was on the wall of that station:
Mural in the Diagonal Norte Station,  Buenos Aires
And this one is in the Independencia station:
Mural in the Independencia Station,  Buenos Aires
We spotted this tile with an Arabic-looking line along the stairway into a station, I think the Independencia station:

My notes don't show which station had this mural, but I think it is the opposite side of the Independencia station from the mural pictured above.  Both were cityscapes of Spain.
This smaller design is in the Avenida de Mayo station:
Mural in Avenida de Mayo station, Buenos Aires Subte
 This black and white, cartoonish mural was sui generis:

Here is another variant on the entry corridor, at the San Juan station:
Stair case into San Juan station, Buenos Aires Subte
These are the murals in that station:
Tiled mural in San Juan station, Buenos Aires Subte

Tiled mural in San Juan station, Buenos Aires Subte
The last station we visited was Retiro.  I could not find any large murals, but there was a collection of smaller works, more like paintings, such as these:
Tiled picture in Retiro Station on the Buenos Aires Subte

Tiled picture in Retiro Station on the Buenos Aires Subte